- After suspension is removed, drill out rivets in running board and center of drop bracket. If you center punch the rivet it will drill easier.
- Remove the 4 ( 2 per side) 25H Torex screws from the drop bracket. Remove the small steel backer plate from inside.
- Remove outside half of drop bracket.
- Install K MOD drop bracket over the remaining half of the original drop bracket, ( with pilot hole for the K MOD rear arm toward the rear of the vehicle, there will be a left and right drop bracket) align holes in running boards and install rivets,( do not pull rivets until side screws are in).
- Install button head bolt with acorn nut facing outside through original suspension mounting hole and new drop bracket, tighten until both pieces are together. Install side screws in drop bracket, this may be difficult to align and get them started with such fine threads. As an alternative if you want you can drill out the screw holes to 3/16’’ and install new 3/16’’ rivets.( the rivets are preferred and much stronger)
- After side screws are in then pull the pop rivets in the running board. (it may take some chasing the holes with a 3/16’’ drill to get aligned perfectly).
- Tighten the button head bolt with acorn nut.
- Drill out the pilot hole in the new outside drop bracket through the existing drop bracket with a 3/8’’ drill bit, this is the new K MOD rear arm mounting position in the drop bracket.
The Axys tunnel is the lightest tunnel on the market.
If you pack gas or anything over 12 lbs. on the back of your tunnel make sure that your coupler is on number 1.
If there is added weight on the back of the tunnel and your running number 2, 3, or 4 on the coupler the extra weight combined with the forces of a coupling suspension can bend the tunnel in front of the drop brackets. (even with the extra support of the Fire-n-Ice extreme plates). We have several thousand miles on sleds in all coupling positions with no issues as long as there is no added weight on the back of the tunnel.